Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Emerald, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Freshwater Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Aquamarine, Sterling Silver, Yell...
Mid-20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling Silver, Yellow Gold, 9k ...
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Zircon, Sterling Silver
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold
Early 1900s German Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Gold Plate, Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Late 20th Century Chinese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Enamel, Gilt Metal, Sterling Silver
1880s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Italian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Platinum
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold
1910s Russian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
2010s Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tanzanite, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold, 10k Gold
2010s Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Amethyst, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Peridot, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Zircon, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
1990s German Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 2000s German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, White Gold, Enamel
2010s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, Enamel
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Cultured Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
1910s English Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, Black Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Ru...
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sterling Silver
2010s Japanese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold
1890s Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Natural Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond, Enamel, Yellow Gold,...
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Coral, Sterling Silver, Yellow Go...
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pink Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Coral, 9k Gold, Sterling Silver, ...
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s English Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
Early 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1960s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
1940s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1940s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Zircon, Tourmaline, Quartz, Sterling Silver, Silver, Gold Plate, 18k Gold
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From vibrant to subtle, elegant to cheeky, enamel jewelry encompasses a wide range of colors and styles, and there are almost as many techniques for creating these distinctive pieces.
What Makes Art Nouveau Jewelry So Collectible?
The first art and design movement of the 20th century was all about celebrating beauty of women and nature.