Pierre Sterlé Diamond and South Sea Pearl Brooch

About the Item

This spectacular brooch, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and South Sea pearls, demonstrates the dynamic forms and flowing lines for which Pierre Sterlé’s artistic designs were celebrated. Modeled as flexible entwined platinum fronds of sparkling diamond leaves with a triplet of South Sea pearl berries, the jewel beautifully expresses the sense of momentarily suspended motion. Artist: Pierre Sterlé, Paris Country: France Circa: 1950s Size: 2.25” length, 3.25” width Materials: 300 Round brilliant-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 8.50 carats); 3 South Sea pearls (measuring approximately 13.5 mm, 13.3 mm, and 12.5 mm); Platinum Signed: “Sterlé Paris 5263” with French control marks Literature: Similar brooch pictured in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, Editions Vecteurs, 1990, plate 1273

Creator:
Pierre Sterlé
Metal:
Platinum
Stone:
Diamond,White Diamond,South Sea Pearl
Stone Cut:
Brilliant Cut
Weight:
8.5 ct
Dimensions:
Width: 3.25 in (82.55 mm)Length: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1950-1959
Date of Manufacture:
Circa 1950s
Condition:
Seller Location:
New York, NY
Reference Number:
Seller: BO-164111stDibs: LU89309152

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Pierre Sterlé

The loss of his father in World War I led to Pierre Sterlé’s mentorship under his uncle, who supported his ascension into the jewelry design world. At the height of his success, Sterlé designed for jewelry titans Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. He won the De Beers Diamond Award three years in a row and operated out of an exclusive boutique in Paris that served the elite and royal families by appointment only.

His uncle was a Parisian jeweler on the rue de Castiglione. Sterlé started his own workshop at the age of 29 and spent five years designing for eminent Parisian jewelry houses on rue Sainte-Anne. By the mid-1940s, Sterlé had moved his atelier closer to the Place Vendôme to better serve his wealthy patrons, who included French author Colette, King Farouk of Egypt, the Maharani of Baroda and the Begum Aga Khan.

Sterlé had a remarkable ability to “knit gold” into woven masterpieces. His technical prowess was unmatched by anyone in Paris, and arguably the world. His “angel wire” technique, considered his signature style, incorporated gold into fine ropes that became link bracelets, cocktail rings and accents on decorative pins and brooches. The effect gave a sense of movement and life to the pieces, something Sterlé strived for in his attempts to make metal and precious gemstones less rigid and cold.

Two misfortunes derailed his business. The first was a failed venture into perfume, which resulted in having to sell many of his designs to Chaumet and New York jeweler Montreaux. Sterlé rebounded with a successful display at the 1966 Biennale in Paris, where he was the first modern jeweler ever invited. His second misstep was more damaging. He opened an exclusive shop on the rue Saint-Honoré in 1969. It was unsuccessful, and he was forced to declare bankruptcy, selling most of his stock to Chaumet in 1976.

Sterlé stayed on with the company as a consultant until his death two years later in 1978.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Pierre Sterlé rings, earrings, bracelets and more.