Cartier 1910 Edwardian Belle Epoque Oval Brooch Platinum with 5.13ctw Diamonds

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Cartier 1910 Edwardian Belle Epoque Oval Brooch Platinum with 5.13ctw Diamonds

About the Item

Belle epoque brooch with diamonds designed by Cartier. Magnificent piece from the Edwardian and Belle Epoque periods, created by the jewelry house of Cartier, back in the 1910. This exceptional oval brooch is extremely rare because her's condition, the quality and the manufacturing period. This has been carefully crafted in solid platinum and is mounted with a superb selection of natural diamonds. The inside and outsides edges are finished with millegrain patterns and is fitted at the reverse with a hinged horizontal pin bar with a mechanical lock. The craftsmanship is impeccable with great attention to details as we expect from the Cartier Maison. Diamonds: Mounted in bezel settings, with 4 French squared rhomboid rose cut diamonds, 0.65 carats, white colorless F color, VS-1 clarity, Diamonds: Mount in a pave setting, with 112 graduated European rose cut diamonds, 4.48 carats, white colorless F color, VS-2 clarity. Birthstone: Diamonds, for the month of April. Weight: 6.65 Grams, (4.26 Dwt). Measurements: 39 mm by 21 mm (1.54 x 0.83 Inches). Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the four digits serial number and signed by engraving in the edge, "CARTIER NY 1405". History The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Langs with thanks). Edwardian Jewelry Period was during the King Edward VII, after whom this period of jewelry history is named, reigned over England for only nine years, yet the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was created roughly between 1890 and 1920. Edwardian-era rings tend to be larger, opulent pieces, and stacked ring designs were popular. The metal surfaces of the rings were often diamond-encrusted for additional shimmer. Each of these rings is a work of art, showcasing a bygone era of grace, elegance and the royalty the Edwardian era is named for. Note: Millegrain is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry. Note: A very interesting fact about this piece is the serial number of only four digits. This number is relatively low and denotes that this piece is of very early manufacture. Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by the original designer's presentation jewelry box. Condition: The overall condition of this brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the platinum. All diamonds are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity. INVENTORY REF: P020123OENM/.1918

Creator:
Cartier
Metal:
Platinum
Stone:
Diamond,White Diamond
Stone Cut:
Old European Cut
Weight:
5.13 ct
Dimensions:
Width: 0.83 in (21.09 mm)Length: 1.54 in (39.12 mm)
Style:
Edwardian
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1900-1909
Date of Manufacture:
1908
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. The overall condition of this brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the platinum. All diamonds are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
Seller Location:
Miami, FL
Reference Number:
Seller: P020123OENM/.19181stDibs: LU2690218324312

Shop All Cartier

Cartier

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.