Black Tahitian Pearl Dutch DroogDesign 1998 Unique ThirdNipple GoldDisk Brooch

During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...

Like the pendant collected by the Smithsonian American Art Museum, this bezel-set lava rock was handcrafted as a modern sterling silver brooch by studio-artist Joan Parcher...

Antique ArtDeco-period Bakelite rare three-color ribbon bow hand-blended-and-carved brooch. Given the colors, narrow style, texture and affixed brass pin...

This early Miriam Haskell lacquered-shell and brass-decorated clip brooch was created by Frank Hess, her first designer since 1926. The 1930s brooch features three seashells supporti...

Epitomizing the organic subjects and hand-craftsmanship spanning the Arts-&-Crafts to Art-Nouveau movements that were led in The United States by Louis Comfort Tiffany, this gifted o...

Like Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Hattie Carnegie, and Pauline Trigere, Mary McFadden produced jewelry in the 20th Century to compliment her own couture-clothing designs. Unlike those fashion designers, McFadden handcrafted her sculptural jewelry, whereby her studio designs in brass since...

A resplendent piece by Van Cleef & Arpels, comprised of 218 fancy vivid yellow diamonds weighing approximately 25 carats VVS-VS, finely set in 18k yellow gold and designed as a quin...

Vintage Sterling Silver 925 Marcasite Enamel Greyhound Dog Brooch High Quality green number 4 with enamel baby blue number 7 with enamel in excellent condition please see photos t...

This massive and fabulously over the top ruby and canary diamond flower brooch with removable stem contains approximately 100 carats of glistening red rubies in the flower part. Th...

A vintage 18K yellow gold figural pin brooch representing a flamingo. The piece is garnished with round and baroque natural pearls, emerald cabochons, and cut diamonds. The eye of th...

Norseland by Coro Large Sterling Silver Vintage Brooch Bird Approximately weight is 26 Grams. The brooch is in great condition just needs a light polishi...

A Coral carving of a buddha: 80.75 carats with Diamond 2.46 carats, Diamond 0.31 carat Brooch Set in 18 Karat White Gold Settings Width:2.4 cm Length: 6.0 cm Weight: 26.71 grams ...