Rare Mariano Fortuny Berry Silk Crepe Coat
About the Item
Venetian glass beads and silk cord are used to decorate the fabric edges and closures. There is one closure at the chest and one near the knees. Beads are used to weight the seams at the slashed armholes.
As renown specialists in Fortuny, Vintage Luxury is always interested in acquiring the finest examples of Fortuny including entire collections.
Fortuny translated the caftan as a loose fitting outer garment, usually made out of silk velvet crepe or gauze the fitted back and open front allowed for elaborate stenciled decoration and venetian bead trim.
This knee length silk crepe wrap, based on antique ethnic caftan styles, is cut square with openings for the arms. A stenciled Fortuny garment has minimal cuts so that the garment can serve as a canvas for the art work.
The hand stenciling is done with real gold metallic pigments aged to a mellow, burnished color. Fortuny built his stenciled pieces layer upon layer, until he achieved the effect of an ancient brocade.
Excellent condition.
Hand signed in side seam.
Dimensions:
Length: 38"
Width: 42"
- Designer:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Material Notes:Silk Crepe, Venetian Glass beads
- Condition:Excellent.
- Seller Location:Riverdale, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: AAU09121546198D
Fortuny
Spanish fashion designer Mariano Fortuny was a true artist who worked with beautiful fabrics as his medium of choice. Although he showed talent in painting, sculpting, photography and architecture at an early age, fashion was where he really shined.
Fortuny was an innovator in the world of textile design, he drew on classical Greek tunics for his rich and interesting garments and worked with a revolutionary system for creating pleats. He designed a range of clothing for his couture house, and today, vintage Fortuny evening gowns, gemstone-colored day dresses, coats and accessories like drawstring bags are known for their fine craftsmanship and signature elegance.
Fortuny was born Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo in 1871 in Granada, into a family of artists. His father died when Fortuny was only three years old, and his mother moved the family to Paris. As a child, Fortuny was fond of experimenting and figuring out how things worked. He even dyed pieces of fabric from his family's textile collection, which had been amassed from shops around Europe.
In 1889, the family moved again, this time to Venice. Here, Fortuny found inspiration in the past, which would influence his future designs. Not long after, the young Fortuny set off to travel the continent. In 1897, he visited Paris and fell in love with a dressmaker named Henriette Negrin. She became his muse, his wife and his creative partner — Negrin worked with Fortuny on clothing designs and fabrics — and the two settled in the French capital.
A lifelong inventor, Fortuny began patenting his creations in 1901. By 1934, he had registered more than 20 patents. At the same time, his fashion career was taking off.
In 1907, he designed the Delphos gown with Negrin, which French novelist and essayist Marcel Proust described as "faithfully antique but markedly original." Fortuny had worked from his home until 1922 when increased demand required large-scale production. He opened a factory in Venice, where due to the scarcity of silk, he began experimenting with cotton.
In 1927, New York interior designer Elsie McNeill traveled to Paris to meet Fortuny and became his exclusive American distributor. She returned to the United States and introduced Fortuny's designs to New World audiences. Shops opened in Paris, New York and London. Toward the end of the 1930s, Fortuny returned to painting and stepped away from the busy fashion industry.
After Fortuny passed away in 1949, McNeill took over the label and continued running it until 1988, when it was purchased by the Riad family, who remain at the helm of Fortuny today.
On 1stDibs, find vintage Fortuny clothing and accessories.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Riverdale, NY
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Extremely Rare Mariano Fortuny Cotton DelphosBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYThis extraordinarily rare dress is made of finely pleated white cotton. Few cotton pleated Fortuny dresses have been documented and survived.
Named after a Greek clas...CategoryEarly 20th Century Italian Art Deco Delphos Gowns
- Mariano Fortuny Black Stencilled Velvet Long CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortuny's coats often take their inspiration from a myrid of references,renaissance,persian,arabic .These are often elaborately decorated in historical motifs surprisingly unrelated...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Pink Coral Stencilled Velvet Long CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortunys coats take their inspiration from a myrid of references,renaissance ,persian,arabic .These are often elaborately decorated in historical motifs...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Rare Shell Pink Long Sleeved Delphos GownBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYDescription: This dress is made of finely pleated shell pink colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording.
CategoryEarly 20th Century Italian Art Deco Delphos Gowns
Mariano Fortuny Black Peplos GownBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYThis dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording.
...CategoryEarly 20th Century Italian Art Deco Delphos Gowns
Mariano Fortuny Gauze Sleevless Coat, Provenance Tina ChowBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYTransparent Fortuny gauze pieces are based on the ancient tunic which was a shirt like garment that became traditional attire in roman times, the copts or christian egyptians...CategoryEarly 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Yves Saint Laurent 1970s Quilted JacketBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in Scottsdale, AZNobody does it quite like Yves Saint Laurent! Alongside the launch of his legendary fragrance Opium, YSL showcased his China collection during the Fall/Winter runways in 1977. This q...Category
1970s French Jackets
- Dolce & Gabbana pink floral silk jacket and skirt ensemble, c. 1990sBy Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GBDolce & Gabbana hot pink silk ensemble with vibrant floral print throughout. Knee length jacket with leopard silk lining. Above the knee length pencil skirt. c. 1990sCategory
1990s Italian Skirt Suits
- North Face X Gucci Light Pink Down Jacket SBy GucciLocated in Dubai, Al Qouz 2Infuse an extra dose of style into your outfit with this highly fashionable jacket. Tailored from quality materials, it embodies a contemporary vibe and is filled with functional cha...Category
2010s Italian Jackets
- Renzo Blazer with Leather DetailsLocated in Amsterdam, NLVintage Renzo blazer trimmed with black leather. The material is 100% wool with black leather details on collar and pockets. Gold color buttons, no pock...Category
20th Century German Blazers
- Louis Feraud Pink Light Wool BlazerBy Louis FeraudLocated in Amsterdam, NLThis extraordinaire pink blazer is made of light wool with sculpted gold colored buttons. Louis Feraud label is out, but the LF lining is there. Good preloved condition Size Appears ...Category
1980s French Blazers
- Balmain Double-Breasted Leather Blazer FR 40By BalmainLocated in Brossard, QCDouble-breasted blazer in a slick leather construction. Rose pink leather Peak lapels Double-breasted button fastening Two side flap pockets Chest welt p...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Jackets