Hermes double faced stretch wool "Double" Jacket
View Similar Items
Hermes double faced stretch wool "Double" Jacket
About the Item
There is a doubled facing which gives the impression of a doubled jacket which is buttoned at the CB neck and shoulder with signature "H" buttons. A twisted classicism.
Length:32.5"
Sleeve length: 24"
Across back: 16.5"
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: 40 (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Material Notes:95% Wool/5% elastane
- Condition:Excellent.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: AU09121446190
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- Yohji Yamamoto Elongated Pinstripe CoatBy Yohji YamamotoLocated in New York, NYYohji Yamamoto wool pinstriped mourning style coat with faux horn buttons and extended shoulder. 1980s Japan. Size M. Suitable for men or women. Un...Category
1980s Japanese Single-Breasted Jackets
- Anne Marie Beretta Sculpted Tweed JacketBy Anne Marie BerettaLocated in New York, NYIconic design by Anne Marie Beretta from the mid 1980's. Sculpted Tweed Jacket with signature angle sleeves and faux horn snap closure. Straight boxy cut with 2 sets of leather trimm...Category
1980s French Jackets
- Yves Saint Laurent Satin Spencer JacketBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in New York, NYIconic Yves Saint Laurent Satin Spencer Tuxedo Jacket from the 1980's with crystal decorated buttons at waist and cuffs. Super strong shoulder...Category
1980s French Cropped Jackets
- Yves Saint Laurent Gray Velvet JacketBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in New York, NYYves Saint Laurent Gray Velvet Jacket bound in black braid and gilt thistle buttons. Strong shoulders with square cut form. Classic wardrobe staple. 1970's...Category
1970s French Jackets
- Yves Saint Laurent Puff Sleeve BlazerBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in New York, NYYves Saint Laurent Puff Sleeve Blazer in deep blue faille. YSL cuts the best blazers around. Strong shoulders with the body of the jacket grazing ov...Category
1990s French Blazers
- Early Yves Saint Laurent Violet Cotton Twill JacketBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in New York, NYEarly Yves Saint Laurent Violet Cotton Twill Jacket from the 1970's. French workwear reimagined by St. Laurent with puffy sleeves, slash pockets and vibrant color. Works well belted ...Category
1970s French Jackets
- RICK OWENS Avant Garde Distressed Leather Biker JacketBy Rick OwensLocated in Berlin, BEClassic avant-garde biker jacket from Rick Owens. A true Rick Owens staple. This avant-garde jacket is made from a soft distressed lamb leather and features a concealed front zip closure, classic Rick Owens long sleeves...Category
2010s Italian Jackets
- NWT Chanel 15A Paris Salzburg jacket Size 40By ChanelLocated in Merced, CAChanel most wanted Paris Salzburg runway jacket. This is new with tags. It is adorned with embroidery throughout. Fabric is beautiful blend of 79% wool, 17% cotton, and 4% polyester.Category
Late 20th Century French Jackets
- Hermès silk jacket FR 40By HermèsLocated in Rubiera, REA very rare Hermès silk iridescent taffeta jacket with autumn leaves, vintage 90s Shawl collar, 3 mother-of-pearl buttons with logo, side pockets. O...Category
1990s French Jackets
$1,328 Sale Price20% Off - VERSACE velvet barocco dress and biker jacket pre fall 2011By VersaceLocated in Rubiera, REVersace pre fall 2011 Collection Coordinated biker jacket and dress, velvet barocco Size IT 42 Excellent conditionCategory
2010s Italian Jackets
$2,325 Sale Price30% Off - S/S 1993 Gianni Versace Baroque Flags Silk Blazer Jacket Miami CollectionBy Gianni Versace CoutureLocated in Concord, NCGianni Versace Vintage 1993 Flag Silk Blazer themed around the Italian Explorer Amerigo Vespucci who helped discover America. Featuring the Flags print from Spring Summer 1993 depic...Category
1990s Italian Blazers
- Wool & Patent Armani Collezioni JacketBy Armani CollezioniLocated in Glasgow, GBDeep purple wool jacket with shiny black patent trim from Armani Collezioni. Beautiful deep purple wool with patent trim along the collar, hemline, cuffs and pockets. Double breasted...Category
2010s Italian Jackets
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.