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Gucci By Tom Ford Black Mongolian

Gucci by Tom Ford black Mongolian lamb and leather jacket, fw 1999
By Gucci, Tom Ford for Gucci
Located in London, GB
Gucci by Tom Ford black Mongolian lamb jacket with leather rope waist fastening. Fall-Winter 1999
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Gucci for sale on 1stDibs

Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.

Guccio Gucci (1881–1953) admired the stylish suitcases he saw wealthy guests arrive with at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he worked as a bellhop. So, in 1921, after a stint at Franzi, a luggage company in his hometown of Florence, he opened a leather goods shop of his own.

At first, Gucci’s Florence business specialized in equestrian accessories. But as its reputation flourished, particularly among the English aristocracy, so too did its footprint. In 1938, he brought three of his sons — Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo — into the business and expanded it to Rome and later Milan. In the mid-1930s, a League of Nations embargo against Italy pushed Gucci to experiment with alternatives to imported leather. Its woven hemp fabric from Naples, adorned with the brand’s signature diamond print, was a hit, especially among A-list celebrities. The material was first used on suitcases before finding enduring popularity on handbags. (No list of revered designer purses would be complete without Gucci.)

In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor carried one of Gucci’s bamboo-handled tote bags, another adaptation to material rationing. After Jackie Kennedy was seen sporting a slouchy Gucci tote in 1961, it was renamed for the First Lady. Then Grace Kelly, on a visit to the boutique in Milan, inspired Rodolfo Gucci to work with Italian illustrator and Gucci textile designer Vittorio Accornero on the Flora print in 1966. Taking cues from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera, with its pattern of flora and insects, it was painted entirely by hand and featured no fewer than 37 colors.

In 1953, just 15 days after opening his first store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Guccio passed away at 72. The early 1970s saw store openings in Tokyo and Hong Kong, but by the late 1980s, Gucci was floundering. Rodolfo Gucci took charge in 1982, but family drama and lawsuits ensued. In 1993, Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, transferred his shares in the company to Investcorp, ending the family’s involvement in Gucci. Dawn Mello, then-president of Bergdorf Goodman, joined as creative director in 1989. But it was Tom Ford, who took over as creative director in 1994, who ultimately revived the brand.

Ford’s racy ads, shot by photographers such as Mario Testino, stirred controversy. And his potent vision of sexed-up femininity — with “jewel-toned satin shirts unbuttoned to there,” as Vogue described his breakthrough 1995 runway show — was wildly successful. The new millennium brought new ownership — Pinault Printemps Redoute in 2004 — and a more toned-down vision from Frida Giannini, who became sole creative director in 2006. Alessandro Michele was named creative director in 2015, and the storied brand took a giant leap forward.

Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.

Fashion of the 1990s

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.

If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”

If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.

The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.

For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”

“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”

Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.” 

Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.

Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”

Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”

Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.

Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.

Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.

Finding the Right jackets for You

No matter if you’re preparing for a fashion event or a weather event — you’re going to need a good jacket.

What would become the modern jacket as we know it began as a strictly professional item. A lot of the vintage and designer jackets (and coat styles such as the Navy-inspired peacoat) in our closets were likely popularized by soldiers who battled aggressive climes with their regulation field jackets, bombers and parkas buttoned or zipped to the chin. Indeed, keeping troopers comfortable guided the design of the military surplus garments that have often become buzzy fashion trends. But now, jackets add far more than warmth to our wardrobe, and we hunt down outer layers branded with peerless fashion labels.

Fashion’s most iconic creations, despite their age, remain modern: Biker jackets originated in the 1920s, Balenciaga’s celebrated puffers are steeped in a tradition of down coats that began in the 1930s and your vintage denim jacket has come an even longer way, from California Gold Rush to wardrobe staple. Jeans bequeathed jean jackets during the 1880s, thanks to Levi Strauss, who crafted the former as a durable garment to be worn by miners and railroad workers. Later, jeans and jean jackets became synonymous with nonconformity and rebelliousness — with fashion legends such as actor James Dean in the 1950s and model Veruschka in the 1960s and ’70s leading the indigo-toned charge.

Another fashion rebel, Coco Chanel, used the classic tweed jacket to introduce more comfort and mobility into women’s daily lives. Debuting in 1954 and based on a cardigan, the groundbreaking Chanel jacket forever changed what women wear. The garment reacted against the fitted, constricting styles of Christian Dior’s New Look, which, as Chanel saw it, was making women dress like decorative objects.

On 1stDibs, find bold collections from cutting-edge contemporary designers who’ve taken the classic silhouette of the jacket to new heights or build out your array of vintage treasures (denim or otherwise) with dazzlers from Yves Saint Laurent, Gianni Versace, Moschino and more.

Questions About Gucci
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 19, 2024
    The P in Gucci P refers to the polarized lenses in the legendary Italian brand’s popular sunglasses. Polarized lenses in your Gucci sunglasses — or in any pair of designer sunglasses — will go toward reducing glare. A polarized lens has been chemically treated to help wearers by providing enhanced colors, sharper details and visual clarity. 

    Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.

    Gucci’s holding company Guccio Gucci S.p.A. is a subsidiary of the luxury group Kering. Its sunglasses are manufactured by Kering Eyewear.

    Find vintage Gucci sunglasses on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 20, 2024
    Gucci is pronounced GOO-chee. Gucci is an Italian name -- the renowned fashion house’s founder was Florence, Tuscany-born businessman Guccio Giovanbattista Giacinto Dario Maria Gucci. In the Italian language, the double "c" in Gucci is pronounced with the '"ch" sound that you hear in the beginning of words such as chime or chalk. Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Gucci slides are true to size, but the leather can stretch as you break them in. On the other hand, Gucci jelly shoes don’t change their shape at all. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of vintage Gucci slides.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    No. While Gucci doesn’t participate in Cyber Monday sales, you will be able to find genuine Gucci items, new or vintage, from the luxury fashion house on trusted online platforms at great price points. On 1stDibs, find a variety of authentic Gucci pieces.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Gucci tights typically run small, so going up a size for the most comfortable fit is suggested. The Gucci tights are thicker than most pantyhose, but it all depends on how you take care of them — and how carefully you slide them on. Find Gucci tights and other garments from the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    You can tell a Gucci headband is real by looking at the inside. A real Gucci headband will have a Gucci logo tag sewn on the inside. Always purchase Gucci headbands from a reputable seller to ensure authenticity. Shop a collection of authentic Gucci headbands from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, Gucci does have a men’s collection. High fashion knows no boundaries when it comes to eclectic contemporary pieces, and Gucci products represent the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship. Shop an array of Gucci looks from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Gucci was known to have a private sale twice a year; however, the last known sale happened in 2016. But don’t fret, you can find vintage and contemporary Gucci looks from top sellers around the world on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    To tell if a Gucci wallet is genuine, check the interior engraving. Each wallet includes an inscription with an evenly weighted font that will say “Gucci Made In Italy.” Always purchase Gucci wallets from a reputable seller to ensure authenticity. Shop a large collection of authentic Gucci wallets from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The best way to clean a Gucci hat depends on the style and material of the hat. Refer to the care tag inside for optimal cleaning instructions to keep your hat looking its best. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of Gucci hats.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes. The serial number on an authentic Gucci belt is usually 19 to 21 digits long and begins with "114" or “223”. If the serial number begins with 1212, it's not an authentic Gucci belt. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of authentic Gucci belts.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    Yes, Gucci sneakers tend to run small. As a result, you may need to purchase one-half size larger than you normally wear. Consult the official Gucci sizing guide on the brand’s website for specific guidance about which size shoes to purchase based on the length and width of your foot. Browse a collection of Gucci sneakers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    A Gucci belt should fit comfortably in the style you most plan to wear it. Decide whether you plan to wear it as a cinch around your waist, pair it with high-waisted pants or wear it with low-rise pants. Measure your waist at this point and use the Gucci size chart to determine which belt size is most appropriate for your needs. Browse a range of authentic Gucci belts on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The best way to clean Gucci glitter shoes is with a soft cloth or toothbrush. With a gentle hand, wipe the shoes with soapy water to dislodge dirt and let air-dry. Once dry, store the shoes in a dust bag to keep clean. On 1stDibs, find a wide range of Gucci glitter shoes.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    To tell if Gucci sneakers are real, check the inside of the shoes. Each pair of Gucci sneakers will have an 8-digit serial number as well as have a tag that says “Gucci Made in Italy.” Always purchase Gucci shoes from a reputable seller to ensure authenticity. On 1stDibs, shop a large collection of authentic Gucci sneakers from some of the world’s top boutiques.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    There are a few ways to tell if your Gucci jacket is real or fake. Authentic Gucci jackets are made with evenly spaced stitches, even on the backside of the neck tag. Always purchase Gucci jackets from a reputable seller to ensure authenticity. On 1stDibs, find a large collection of authentic Gucci jackets from some of the world’s top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    To tell if Gucci glasses are real, study the printing on the inside of the arms. Real Gucci sunglasses will say "Gucci" in capital letters next to the words "made in Italy," in smaller capital letters. In addition, the metal pads that support the nose pads of authentic Gucci eyeglasses and sunglasses show off intertwined "G" logo stamps. Shop a range of carefully vetted Gucci glasses on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertJanuary 4, 2022
    To tell if Gucci shoes are real, check the inside of the shoe. Each shoe will have an 8-digit serial number in the lining and will say "Gucci Made in Italy." Always purchase Gucci shoes from a reputable seller to ensure authenticity. Shop a large collection of Gucci shoes from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, Gucci belts can be repaired. In some cases, the repair service may be free, depending on whether you have an account with Gucci or proof of purchase. Gucci's after-sale service is for customers who purchase directly from a Gucci boutique or authorized retailers. Shop a collection of Gucci belts on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The comfort of Gucci shoes is really a matter of preference and may depend on the type of shoes you are wearing. Gucci makes a wide variety of shoes from loafers, to sneakers, to high-heeled sandals — each has their own fit and comfort level. Sizing is a relevant factor, and for the brand’s footwear, there is a size guide paired with the product description on the official website. There may also be a note within the descriptions on whether or not a specific item runs particularly true to size (Gucci suggests that its Women’s Ace leather sneakers, for example, run big). Shop a collection of authentic Gucci shoes from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.